American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, St. Elias Range, Kluane National Park and Reserve, Mountaineering Summary

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2007

Kluane National Park and Reserve, mountaineering summary. Weather in the Kluane Icefields during the 2006 climbing season was predictably unpredictable. As a result of sustained storms and snowfall, the Mt. Logan massif in particular saw fewer climbing parties than usual in recent years.

A total of 86 persons participated in 29 mountaineering expeditions. This accounted for 1,535 person-days in the icefields of Kluane National Park and Reserve.

Expeditions are usually concentrated in the Mt. Logan area. However only nine parties made it to the massif, with all but one expedition attempting the standard King Trench route. The East Ridge was attempted by one group, but it was unsuccessful due to lack of snow. The mountain allowed only two expeditions to successfully reach its main summit. Uncooperative weather for aircraft and foot travel was the main factor in the low number of successful expeditions.

Other mountains that received climbing activity included Pinnacle Peak, Mt. Wood, Mt. Walsh, Mt. Steele, Mt. Queen Mary, and McArthur Peak. There were three ski-touring expeditions into the Icefields.

Of note was an Alpine Club of Canada 2006 Centennial Camp, which was held in the vicinity of Donjek Mountain. The group of approximately 10 established their camp on the Eclipse Glacier and spent two weeks exploring various routes in the area. Successful ascents were made on Mts. Walsh, and Badham, and other peaks. The last major ACC expedition was organized in 1966 in the Steele Glacier area.

No major search and rescue operations occurred in the icefields during the climbing season.

Mountaineering in the Icefield Ranges of Kluane National Park is an inherently dangerous activity, but with proper preparation and planning most groups have very positive experiences and return with memories that last a lifetime.

Registration is mandatory for all overnight activity in Kluane National Park and Reserve. Anyone interested in mountaineering should contact:

Mountaineering Warden, Kluane National Park and Reserve, Box 5495, Haines Jct., Yukon, YOB 1L0, CANADA. Phone 867 634 7279; Fax 867 634 7277; e-mail For a mountaineering application package, visit the Parks Canada web site:

Kluane National Park and Reserve

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