North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Coast Mountains, Peak 7,030' (Mt. Bearzi) and Peak 6,230'

Publication Year: 2007.

Peak 7,030' (Mt. Bearzi) and Peak 6,230'. In July Carl Dietrich and Kale Sommer made the third ascent of Peak 7,030', located six miles northwest of Devil’s Thumb in the Stikine Icefield, via a new route from the east. From the Burkett Glacier, the pair traversed Peak 6,230' (likely FA) and up the east ridge of 7,030', then reversed the ascent (with a bivy en route).

Unreported from 2002, two local climbers made the second ascent of 7,030'. From the Witches’ Cauldron the pair climbed up the mixed southeast aspect. Due to storm and ensuing hazard on the ascent route, they traversed the summit and descended the original northern route (Balog-Clark-Ippolito, 1979), with a bivy on the way down to the long walk back. The ascensionists, family, and friends have chosen to refer to Peak 7,030' as Mt. Bearzi, in memory of the late Mike Bearzi.

Dieter Klose, Alaska