AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Peak 7,400', South Ridge

Peak 7,400', South Ridge. Micha Miller and I spent two weeks in May in the Ruth Gorge, where we climbed a few things and failed on a few more. We left our camp under Mt. Dickey one morning hoping to get on something that wasn’t too committing, as the weather was marginal at best. We climbed the broad couloir that leads to the low point on the ridge between Peak 7,400' and London Bridge. An attempt to stay on the crest of Peak 7,400' was soon thwarted by unstable cornices, so we dropped 300' or so into the basin to the east. From there we worked our way back up to the ridge at a notch just south of the summit. Three pitches of mixed snow and rock (up to 5.7) put us on top of the peak.

As far as we know, and according to our research, the route on Peak 7,400' had not been done before. But it’s a pretty obvious and straightforward route, so it is quite possible someone had done it and never reported it.

David Harden, AAC