American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Mt. Huntington, First Winter Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2007

Mt. Huntington, first winter ascent. On March 10,2007, Jed Brown (Fairbanks) and I flew from Talkeetna to the Tokositna Glacier below Mt. Huntington. On March 12 we climbed to the summit of Huntington via the West Face Couloir (Nettle-Quirk) and descended via the same route, in just under 15 hours roundtrip from camp. ‘Schrund-to-‘shrund was probably about 13:30 roundtrip. We believe this might have been the first ascent of Huntington during the winter season. [This was also the fastest known ascent of Huntington—Ed.] Although many teams descend from the top of the ice ramp, we found it to only be halfway to the summit in terms of time and effort. Conditions and weather were excellent, although the temperatures were cold; we both frost-nipped a few digits. After a few days contemplating other objectives, we gave in to the cold nights and flew out on March 16.

Colin Haley, AAC

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