American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Various Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2007

Various activity. In late May I completed my long-term project of linking The Free Nose (V+ 5.12) and Tague Yer Time (V+ 5.12), all free, in a day, leading every pitch. I began with The Free Nose and finished with Tague Yer Time, completing the link-up in 13.5 hours from North Rim to South Rim. I’m indebted to Phil Gruber and Jed Wareham-Morris (they belayed and jugged for speed) and Erinn Kelly for their generous support. In November Zack Smith and I made the first ground-up ascent of Leonard Coyne and Mick Haffner’s 827 GO! (V 5.13-). Although probably slightly easier than its reported grade, the climb is without doubt a wild addition to the North Chasm View Wall and a testament to the pioneering vision and creativity of one of the Black’s greatest climbers, Leonard Coyne. Unreported from 2005 is the addition by Kent Wheeler (and ?) of Stand Up Comic (IV 5.11) to the Comic Relief Buttress. The climb is of excellent quality and, like many Wheeler routes, has already become popular. Information on these climbs is available from the North Rim Ranger Station.

Josh Wharton, AAC

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