American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Three Fingers, North Peak, Northeast Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2007

Three Fingers, North Peak, Northeast Face. On February 3, 2007, John Frieh and I climbed a new route (IV WI4+ M3) on the northeast face of Three Fingers. We approached up the Squire Creek valley to the basin under the east face in early morning. A steep gully breaches the cliffy cirque in the center of the basin. We traversed to where the climb began in a narrow gully on the right side of the face. A short pitch of WI3 led to easier climbing for several hundred feet. We exited the gully on the left wall, via an easy pitch of ice that led to a bowl under a headwall. The next three pitches ascend the 600' tier of water ice. The first of these is the crux, giving a sustained pitch of WI4+. For the second and third pitches we continued up the right side of the flow for long ropelengths of WI3+ and WI4. Above the headwall is a snow bowl that we traversed to a gully leading down from the north summit. We climbed the gully to the ridge crest, then followed a short mixed chimney and a rimed-up ramp to the summit of the North Peak. After a short bit on top we descended the north face to the Craig Lakes basin, and back into the valley below the face.

Dave Burdick

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.