North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Three Fingers, North Peak, Northeast Face
Three Fingers, North Peak, Northeast Face. On February 3, 2007, John Frieh and I climbed a new route (IV WI4+ M3) on the northeast face of Three Fingers. We approached up the Squire Creek valley to the basin under the east face in early morning. A steep gully breaches the cliffy cirque in the center of the basin. We traversed to where the climb began in a narrow gully on the right side of the face. A short pitch of WI3 led to easier climbing for several hundred feet. We exited the gully on the left wall, via an easy pitch of ice that led to a bowl under a headwall. The next three pitches ascend the 600' tier of water ice. The first of these is the crux, giving a sustained pitch of WI4+. For the second and third pitches we continued up the right side of the flow for long ropelengths of WI3+ and WI4. Above the headwall is a snow bowl that we traversed to a gully leading down from the north summit. We climbed the gully to the ridge crest, then followed a short mixed chimney and a rimed-up ramp to the summit of the North Peak. After a short bit on top we descended the north face to the Craig Lakes basin, and back into the valley below the face.