American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Pts. 6,473 ("Free Asia, Tibet") and 6,063 ("Bochánek"), Possibly First Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2006

Pts. 6,473m (“Free Tibet”) and 6,063m (“Bochánek”), possible first ascents. Zdenek Cervenka, Cestmír Lukeš, and Irene Oehninger from the Czech Republic climbed two peaks close to the end of the long chain of mountains that runs northwest from Xixabangma over Kangboqen (a.k.a. Gang Benchen). The two summits lie at more or less the same location as a peak marked Tsalung (6,640m and south of the Tsalung La) on some maps. They are approximately equidistant from the Kyirong (a.k.a. Gyirong) to Saga road and the normal Nyalam to Saga road used to access Xixabangma north side base camp. They are clearly visible from the latter road where it runs south of the large lake of Pelku Cho and were thought to be previously unclimbed (there does not appear to be a record of their ascents). The three climbers approached by walking seven to eight hours south across the plateau and up the valley leading to the peaks. They then climbed the more easterly and higher peak, Pt. 6,473m (N 28° 41' 50.6", E 85° 25' 20.3"), on September 12, via the northeast slope, and named it Free Tibet. They climbed the more westerly peak, 6,063m (N 28° 43' 07.9", E 85° 25' 10.5"), on the 14th, also from the north, and named it Bochánek. Panoramic views from both peaks are superb.

Thomas Ruckstuhl, Switzerland

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