American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Himal, Mahalangur Himal - Khumbu Section, Kyashar, Southwest Face, Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2006

Kyashar, southwest face, attempt. From October 11 to 15 Jan Doudlebsky and Marek Holecek attempted the first ascent of the southwest face of Kyashar (a.k.a. Peak 43; 6,770m). This peak had its only official ascent in October 2003, by a multinational, Swiss-based team, via the west ridge and west face. The two Czechs began in the center of the southwest face and slanted up left to join the west ridge at 6,500m. It was cold, snow conditions on the ridge were bad, and both climbers were concerned about frostbitten toes. They estimated that to reach the summit would require a further one or two days of climbing, so they opted to descend the west ridge. Although their route did not reach the summit, it joined an existing line, and the climbers have called it Ramro Chaina. Difficulties were about M6+ and WI6.

Jan Kreisinger, Czech Republic

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