American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Himal, Mahalangur Himal - Khumbu Section, Pasang Lhamu Chuli, South Ridge Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2006

Pasang Lhamu Chuli, south ridge attempt. The three-man Italian team of Alois Brugger, Hans Kammerlander, and Karl Unterkircher attempted the south ridge of 7,350m Pasang Lhamu Chuli (formerly Jasamba). [They were seemingly unaware at the time that it had been climbed in autumn 2004 by Slovenians, Rok Blagus, Samo Kremelj, and Uros Samec (1,550m, ED M5), as reported in AAJ 2005, pp. 391-2—Ed.]

In late April the three Italians established base camp at 5,200m and by May 5 had placed a camp at 6,300m on the ridge. However, they were plagued by changeable weather, plenty of snow fall, and almost constant high wind, which prevented them setting up a higher camp or making much progress on the mountain. Finally, on the 17th, all three set out at 4 a.m. in strong winds and poor snow conditions for a summit attempt. Brugger turned back, but the remaining two pressed on until they reached a point estimated to be 600m below the summit. Here they judged the avalanche danger to be extreme. They retreated and gave up any further attempt. To date the mountain, renamed to commemorate the first Nepalese women to climb Everest, has only four recorded ascents.

Adapted from the web site of Hans Kammerlander

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