American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Himal, Rolwaling Himal, Tengkangpoche, Attempts on North Side

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2006

Tengkangpoche, attempts on north side. As of the close of 2005 Tengkangpoche (6,487m), west of Namche Bazar, had been attempted by eight expeditions since it was brought onto the permitted list in 2002. All but one of these tried to climb the impressive north side. [Although lines on the northeast face and northwest face have been climbed to the east and west ridges, respectively, they terminated a long way from the summit. The peak has received at least one unauthorized ascent, by Trevor Pilling and Andy Zimet in 1984, via the east ridge—Ed.] In spring 2005 it was the turn of the Japanese, Minoru Nagoshi and Hiroshi Matsushima, who tried to climb the left side of the northeast face in poor conditions. They gave up at only 5,100m when Nagoshi was hit by an avalanche.

In the autumn Canadians Will Gadd and Scott Semple attempted two lines on the north face. On October 29 they reached 5,200m on one line, and the following day the same height on another. Instead of finding the expected ice, they found unconsolidated snow, and the pair gave up due to the threat of avalanche.

Elizabeth Hawley, AAC Honorary Member, Nepal

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