American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Himal, Jugal Himal, Gyalzen, Attempt and Map Identity

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2006

Gyalzen, attempt and map identity. Our four-person, primarily American party planned to attempt Gyalzen (6,151m) on the Tibetan border. We were not successful, partially due to bad weather but more because of confusion as to identity of the peak. Gyalzen stands close to Leonpo Gang (Big White Peak) and can only be seen clearly from farther away (30km from where it is possible to view the entire Jugal). The Gyalzen marked on the HGM Finn Map is not the correct peak. The peak climbed by the 1955 women’s expedition and named Gyalzen is called Gumba Chuli on the map. This was confirmed by Evelyn McNicol, who accompanied our team and was part of the 1955 expedition. After figuring all this out there was no time left to explore Gyalzen, other than climb onto a ridge coming down from Phurba Chyachu.

Becky Harrison

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