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India, Himachal Pradesh, Spiti, A Review of the Mountains Near the Head of the Pare Chu

A review of the mountains near the head of the Pare Chu. The Pare Chu lies northeast of the Spiti River, not far from the Indo-Tibet border. Since 1995 it has been easy for foreign mountaineers to gain access to the areas west of the Spiti River, but the regions north and east are restricted, so it is necessary to get reluctant Indian authorities to accept applications from other than local people or trekkers. There are five main venues that I would like to discuss:

(1) Peaks south of Umdung (4,880m) on the Pare Chu (river). In addition to the previously climbed peaks of Umdung Kangri (6,643m, climbed in 1999 by JAC Tokai) and Gyadung (6,160m, climbed in 1987 by Kapadia’s Indian expedition) there are several unclimbed peaks, among which Pt 6,367m and Pt 6,321m are quite fascinating.

(2) Peaks north Dutung on the Pare Chu. Mountains in this area north of the Talking Valley have not been attempted. Notable peaks are 6,231m, 6,210m, 6,204m, and 6,122m.

(3) Peaks southwest of Kharsa Gongma, which is situated at the confluence of the Pare Chu and Pakshi Lamur rivers. There are two big unclimbed peaks opposite Kharsa Gongma: Pt 6,307m (6,401m on the Russian map) and Pt 6,320m a little farther east. The west and south flanks are nearly 1,000m high but composed of loose rock. The north sides look more promising, with small glaciers rising to both peaks.

(4) Peaks at the head of Pakshi Lamur. The glacier at the head of this valley is rather large compared to those in neighboring areas. It is surrounded by five peaks: Parilungbi (6,166m, climbed in 1987 by Indians), Dhhun (6,200m, climbed in 1999 and 2005 by JAC Tokai) and three unclimbed peaks, Lhakhang (6,205m), Pt 6,228m, and Pt 6,247m.

(5) Peaks surrounding the head of a side glacier west of the main Pakshi Lamur Glacier. There are four peaks here, two of which, Pts 6,240m and 6,100m, were climbed by an Indian (Bengal) party in 2004. The other two are beautiful, unclimbed, snow-covered mountains of 6,181m and 6,160m.

Tsuneo Suzuki, Japanese Alpine Club