Paolo’s Peak, first ascent, Via Pallaresa; Paolos Peak, No Spice!; Pt 5,930m, first ascent, Anti-parques; Iris Peak, Tine Por; and “Brouillard Pillar,” Tocati di Bola, Ocells a Vent. Last summer marked the end of the 2004-2005 course for members of the Young Alpinist group of the Spanish Mountaineering Federation (FEDME). The reward was a trip in September to the Indian Himalaya and unclimbed peaks of the Miyar Valley. We traveled with Silvia Vidal. Silvia knew the area, having been there in 2004. Thanks to her, the organization and logistics of reaching base camp was much simpler than if wed had been on our own. Using her agent in Manali, we arrived at Phalphu (3,900m) in the main valley and set up base camp.
During the first week the weather was bad, but this allowed us to acclimatize at base camp. We then began to look for interesting lines. Oscar Cacho and I first went up the Tawa Glacier and made the first ascent of Paolo’s Peak (5,460m), which is the third rock peak left (northwest) of Neverseen Tower. We climbed the narrow gully between the peak and Pt 5,700m to the right (M5 80°), then near the top slanted left up the rock of the southwest face to the summit (6a+). Via Pallaresa was 680m and TD.
Matias Cuesta and Jonathan Larrañaga made a second ascent of Paolo’s Peak, by continuing up the last section of the gully to the col at the top and climbing the southeast ridge. No Spice! (5+ M5 80°).
Cacho and I then attempted the west face of Pt 5,750m, immediately left of Neverseen Tower. We climbed a diagonal mixed line (50° and M4) left, into the base of a huge left-facing corner. We retreated about half-way up this corner and around 700m up the face. This was certainly the best climbing I did throughout the trip; to our high point the grade was ED 6b A1 M5. [This is the same peak the Italians (see below) dubbed “Grandfather Ezio”—Ed.]
After another spell of bad weather, we had a look into the valley opposite. This necessitated crossing the river, which proved complicated. We set up a Tyrolean. We discovered a fine snowy peak of 5,930m without any known name and climbed it by the north face, which was cold. Our route, Antiparques (950m TD), required 19 hours of activity. We descended in 18 rappels.
Other members of the group made the following attempts and ascents: On a steep buttress on the flanks of Iris Peak, Victor Sans and Ferran Rodriguez climbed Tinc Por on September 18 (980m 6b). They reached the top of the buttress but did not continue towards the summit of Iris Peak. On a rock formation dubbed the “Brouillard Pillar” (5,240m) Cacho and Sans climbed Tocati di Bola (400m 6b A2). Both climbers returned with Larrañaga and Rodriguez to add Ocells a Vent (340m 6c A2). [Both routes lie on the steep wall left of the 2004 Urtasun-Viscarret route, Shakti (5+ A1).J On the north face of Pt 5,800m, the summit immediately left of Pt 5,930m, Cuesta and Martinez retreated at around three-quarters height after climbing a broad snow couloir and, halfway up, a right-slanting mixed ramp.
Oriol Baro, Spain (with ADDITIONAL MATERIAL FROM Xavier Llongueras)