AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Europe, Norway, Lofoten, Flakstadoy Island, Storinden, Slovakiaruta

Flakstadoy Island, Stortinden, Slovakiaruta. Miro Mrava and Brano Turcek, two climbers from the Slovak Mountaineering Union, JAMES, spent two weeks in northern Norway from August 2 to 17. On the 10th they made a new route on Stortinden, an 866m peak on the island of Flakstadoy. This, the first recorded rock route on the mountain, climbed the west face (the summit is easy to reach from south or north). They completed the 1,200m route (climbing length), which they named Slovakiaruta, Alpine style in 12 hours, beginning at 6 a.m. It has two distinct parts, separated by a large terrace. The lower half is generally slabby, with lots of vegetation, leading to an easy gully. The upper section is clean, quasi-vertical, and significantly more difficult. The route has 24 pitches, with difficulties up to VIII-.

The rock proved to be of good quality, solid granite (even in the grassy sections), and there are plenty of places to use nuts and Friends, though pitons and birdbeaks were also useful.

Vlado Linek, Slovak Mountaineering Union, Slovakia