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Europe, Norway, Lofoten, Austvagoy Island, Vagakallen, Second Ascent of Freya

Austvagoy Island, Vagakallen, second ascent of Freya. Dusan Janak and I arrived on the island of Austvagoy hoping to climb on the big north face of Vagakallen (942m). We were welcomed by six days of perfect weather and made the second ascent of Freya, the 800m, 30-pitch route climbed by Daniela and Robert Jasper in July 1998. Freya climbs the front face of the mountain’s most prominent feature, the Storpillaren (Great Pillar), which was once dubbed the “Bonatti Pillar of Lofoten,” and was graded IX or 7c and new wave A3+.

We climbed Freya from late afternoon on June 12 to early morning on the 16th. Our first bivouac was on a grass ledge at the top of pitch eight, the second at the top of pitch 13, below the big corner with the hardest climbing. The corner gave three pitches: IX, which we climbed AF [AF means that all the moves were climbed free but with rest points—Ed.]; IX-, also AF; and VIII+/IX-, which we climbed onsight. We climbed the next three pitches on aid, at A3+, A3, and A2+. We then rested for a few hours on a small ledge, before finishing the route and descending to the valley.

Apart from the belays, there is only one bolt, on pitch three. Although we hauled a portaledge, one is probably unnecessary, as there are good ledges on the wall

Jan Kreisinger, Czech Republic