American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Africa, Madagascar, Tsaranoro Atsimo, New Route in 2004

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2006

Tsaranoro Atsimo, new route in 2004. The Tsaranoro Massif is now well known and attracts climbers from all over the world, because of its beautiful summits and walls of excellent compact granite. An hour on a jeep from the last village of Ambalavao will take you to Camp Catta, a permanent camp facility below the walls. We visited the region from September 23 to October 20, 2004 and over four days climbed a new route, Avana (Rainbow) on the east face of Tsaranoro Atsimo. We used fixed rope and found it impossible to place natural protection. We placed 10mm stainless steel bolts: 84 for protection and 20 at belays. All you need is two 60m ropes and quickdraws. The height of the route is 530m, with difficulties of 7a+ (7a obl). Pitch grades are as follows: (1) 6a, (2) 6a, (3) 6c, (4) 6c, (5) 6b, (6) 7a+, (7) 6c+, (8) 7a+, (9) 7a+, and (10) 6b+.

Alberto Zucchetti, Italy

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