AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

South America, Peru, Cordillera Vilcanota, Auzangate Massif, Mapping and New Approach Route

Auzangate Massif, mapping and new approach route. In early May, Brad Johnson and I, accompanied by three American clients and supported by five Peruvians, spent 10 days in the Cordillera Vilcanota collecting field data for an upcoming map of the range. We entered the region through Tinqui, Upis, and Arapa Pass and traveled counterclockwise around Auzangate, using the regular trekking route to Jampa. From there we crossed Huayruru Punta to Sibinaco- cha Lake and made a high traverse through Laguna Huarurumicocha and down to Laguna Mul- lucocha, between Serial Nevado Tres Pico and Nevado Chumpa. A Czech team in 2004 explored this pass and did several, as reported in the 2005 AAJ. Although the approach we took from the south is possible on foot, the trail and terrain are still too difficult for pack animals; this may change as more people travel the route. This southern approach may provide quicker access to this part of the range, from a trailhead at Sibinicocha, which is accessible by road from Cuzco. A significant number of unclimbed lines exist in this region, which is becoming easier to access. We plan to complete our fieldwork and publish a map of the range in 2006.

Martin Gamache, Alpine Mapping Guild