American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash, Yerupaja Sur, Furieux Mais Romantiques

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2006

Yerupaja Sur, Furieux Mais Romantiques. The participants on our expedition were Benoît Mont- fort, François Nadal, Julien Laurent, and I. Intending to open a route on the west face of Siula Chico, we left on foot from Llamac, arriving at base camp on the banks of Laguna Sarapococha in three days. It took another day to reach advanced camp beneath the southern arête of Yerupaja Sur (6,515m). Regrettably, the face on Siula Chico was dry, and the glacier very cracked. We thus took refuge on the south face of Yerupaja Sur, where we saw a way to be opened. A short, technical gully marked the start of the route, which then continues up a hanging glacier, at the top of which we bivouacked (5,600m). The next day we climbed endless slopes of ice leading onto the west arête. To reach the summit we followed ice arêtes in the middle of the ice-flutings. We descended by rappel by another line to our bivy, then followed our route the rest of the way down. We left some pitons in place, but it would be useful to take pitons for a repeat.

Pierre Labbre, France

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