American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Huaketsa Punta, Eder Sabino Cacha

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2006

Huaketsa Punta, Eder Sabino Cacha. On June 11, 2004, Mauro Floret, Massimo Sacchi, and Marco Sterni, from Trieste, reached the summit of Huaketsa Punta (a.k.a. Amahuagaychu, 5,134m) after completing the first ascent of the west face. Huaketsa Punta is a steep rock formation set amongst pleasant, grassy meadows east of the well-known Olleros-to-Chavin trail. From Olleros, close to the Rio Santa Valley south of Huaraz, it is possible to take a 4WD for 15-16km to the village of Sacracancha, from where a three-hour walk south leads to the foot of the rock wall, at 4,740m (S 09° 39.49'; W 77°). The rock is porphyry and therefore not always perfect, but allows natural protection throughout. The route follows a prominent dihedral in the center of the face. The climbing was largely free up to 6c, with a 60m section of A2 in a right-facing dihedral close to the summit. Every belay was equipped with one 10mm bolt. The 500m climb, Eder Sabino Cacha, was named after a young Peruvian guide who was killed in an avalanche the previous day while skiing Tocllaraju. The climbers recommend the area as being easy to reach, generally dry, and having little vegetation compared to, say, the Paron Valley.

Lindsay Griffin, Mountain INFO Editor, CLIMB magazine

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