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South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Rurec, Caravaca Jubilar

Rurec, Caravaca Jubilar. After installing base camp in mid-July 2003 below Rurec (5,080m) and fixing the initial pitches, we began our first capsule-style attempt carrying food, water, and gear for three weeks. The team: Alfonso Cerdan Sandoval, my brother Juan Carlos Garcia Gallego, and I. After climbing 250m Alfonso came down with gastroenteritis and Carlos suffered from a respiratory infection, so we descended to base camp to recover and get medical attention.

By early August we were on our second attempt. Alfonso remained sick and abandoned the climb. Carlos and I continued, and on August 23 we reached the top. The new route (1,000m, 21 pitches, VI 5.11 A4) climbs the central part of the wall. The first half is abundant with blind seams, while in the upper half we encountered numerous expanding flakes.

JosÉ Luis Garcia Gallego, Spain (translated by Bean Bowers)