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South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Quebrada Rurec, Pietrorrrago: Vaffanculo; and Itsoc Huanca, Libertad es Partecipacion

Quebrada Rurec, Pietrorrrago: Vaffanculo; and Itsoc Huanca, Libertad es Partecipacion. On August 12, after some preparation, Italians Enzo Arciuoli, Giulio Canti, and Roberto Iannilli put up Pietrorrrago: Vaffanculo! (420m of climbing: 6a/6a+) up the middle of the northwest- facing compact slabs that lie at the start of the Rurec Valley (on the right side, upon entering, under Cerro Pumhauagangan). The route is sustained and on perfect granite, but with little in the way of protection (13 bolts were placed; take quickdraws and small wires and RPs).

Beginning on August 15 Canti and Iannilli put up Libertad es Partecipacion on Itsoc Huan- ca’s northwest aspect. The route ascends the wall immediately left of the corner system that sepa-rates Itsoc Huanca from Punta Numa to its right. It is 1,600m long (6c+ A2), but only 600m (13 pitches) involve difficult rock, the rest being easy ground. The pair started up a slanting dihedral, followed by a crack system with two prominent roofs, then continued on more compact slabs. Higher they crossed a huge amphitheater of rock and vegetation to reach a short headwall, which they climbed in one long pitch to the top of Itsoc Huanca. A full rack is required (RURPs to #5 Camalot). The climbers placed five protection bolts, plus a bolt on every stance. The route took four days, with one bivouac on the wall.

Lindsay Griffin, Mountain INFO Editor, CLIMB magazine, and Roberto Iannilli, Italy