American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Itsoc Huanca, Dominguerismo Vertical

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2006

Itsoc Huanca, Dominguerismo Vertical. The wall is situated in the Quebrada Rurec. To get there obtain transport to Olleros. Here you can get burros to carry gear to base camp, four hours’ walk from town. Three hours into the hike the walls become visible, and Itsoc Huanca [a.k.a. Risco Ayudin—see note below] (4,700m) is located to the right as you ascend the Quebrada, the third of three small peaks (the second is Punta Numa).

The rock quality is exceptional, though perhaps a little dirty at the beginning where it is hard to get in pins or camming units. We (Jordi Barrachina, Daniel Gutierrez, Jorge Ferrero, Maria Lopez, and I, all from Spain) put in 13 days in July to climb 700m up the west face, 10½ days spent actually climbing, using five bivy sites. We placed bolts, and from the top we descended the route, using the same anchors as on our ascent, apart from pitches 17, 12, 5, and 4. Gear: two sets Camalots, 1½ sets Aliens, 10-15 pitons, a variety of small hooks. We named the route Dominguerismo Vertical (ED- 6b A2).

Ramon Perez de Ayala, Spain (translated by Bean Bowers)

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