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South America, Peru, Cordillera, Nevado Chugllaraju, British Route to Summit Ridge

Nevado Chugllaraju, British Route to summit ridge. On June 24 John Pearson and I climbed a new route on the west face of Nevado Chugllaraju (5,575m), southwest of Nevado Ulta and between it and Nevado Cancaraca. A complex approach led to the route, which started with an icy runnel on the right side of the face, followed by several steeper sections of ice (up to Scottish IV/V) before we reached a mixed upper section. This section proved to be the crux, a couple of pitches going at Scottish V. The rest of the route was mostly 55-60° and, although short (350m, 8 pitches), we thought the route warranted a grade of TD-. We stopped on reaching the ridge and rappelled the route.

Anthony Barton, U. K.