AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

North America, Mexico, Candameña Canyon, Macuchi, Raramurí Lenguaje

Candameña Canyon, Macuchi, Raramurí Lenguaje. To further the evolution of climbing, our team of six Mexican guys (Diego Delmar Garza, Pablo Fortes González, Marcos Madrazo Rodríguez, Daniel Castillo Migues, Julio Taba- res Fernández, and I) opened a new long sport route on the southeast face of the Basaseachic Waterfall wall in Candameña Canyon, Chihuahua. We opened the route ground-up, free-climbing the moves and hanging from hooks to drill the bolts, over eight days between March 19 and April 8.

We studied the wall and decided on a line to the left of the waterfall. The route starts with two pitches of mixed face and crack climbing by a dihedral. The third pitch crosses the left side of a roof via face climbing; this is the longest pitch, 57m. Pitches four and five climb beautiful face features, and pitch six Finishes the climb. Macuchi, Raramurí Lenguaje [route name] is 300m long, V 5.12+ in difficulty, and well protected. Although we didn’t send it free, we think it’s probably 5.12+. Necessary equipment: helmet, one 60m rope, 23 long quickdraws. It awaits an all-free ascent. For more information: simuchi@yahoo.com

Luis Carlos García Ayala, México