American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Greenland, Cape Farewell, Ulamertorssuaq, Moby Dick, Previously Unreported Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2006

Ulamertorssuaq, Moby Dick, previously unreported ascents. In 2004 Marco Kuppianen and I came close to onsighting Moby Dick. I fell on the 28th pitch and had to make a couple of aid moves on the 30th (7c+) pitch. We led in two blocks. Marco led the first 15 pitches, and I led the remaining 17. We completed the route from our base camp in a roundtrip of 36 hours. We found the route to be very nice but tainted by all the bolts, at times next to perfect crack placements.

Annicka Bergquist and Sofia Sandgren from Sweden also climbed Moby Dick. I believe this was the first all-female ascent.

Erik Massih, Sweden

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