AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

North America, Greenland, East Coast, Kangerdlugssuaq Mountains, First Ascents

Kangerdlugssuaq Mountains, first ascents. A British expedition comprising Carole Feldman, Peter Hawksworth, Cath Walton, and I made 11 first ascents in the region south of the Hutchinson Glacier. The landing site, logistically about as far as a Twin Otter can fly from Isfijordur, Iceland without refuelling, was at N 68° 04' W 33° 20' and an altitude of 1,395m. The area was previously unvisited, although a 2003 British expedition camped just to the south during a ski tour from their base camp to explore other peaks.

We climbed the following peaks (names provisional): Pk. 1,487m (“Crowley Peak,”N 68° 03' 76.2" W 33° 10' 66.1", via east ridge, July 26); Pk. 1,481m (“Dianas Peak,” N 68°05’88" W 33° 15' 67.2", snow/rock at Scottish II/III, July 28); Pk. 1,679m (“Jess’s Peak,” N 68° 05' 88.9" W 33° 15' 67.2", steep snow/ice at Scottish II, August 2); Pk. 1,526m (N 68° 04, 57.7" W 33° 05' 70.5", August 3); Pk. 1,905m (N 68° 07' 88.1" W 33° 17' 47.8", via the long, snowy southeast ridge at Scottish II, August 7); Pk. 1,733m (N 68° 05' 89.6" W 33° 16' 51.4", Scottish I/II on August 8); Pk. 1,708m (N 68° 07' 48.2" W 33° 20' 55/6", Scottish II and a rocky scramble, August 9); Pt 1,583m (“Laura’s Peak,” N 68° 01' 93.6" W 33° 16' 90.7", Scottish I/II to fine snow summit, August 11); Pk. 1,364m (N 68° 06' 18.7" W 33° 15' 94.6", a rounded snow dome, August 11); Pk. 1,554m (N 68° 06' 28" W 33° 20' 13.3", small easy snow peak, August 11); Pk. 1,648m (“James Whyley Peak,” N 68° 06' 24.1" W 33° 19' 53.9", a fine peak via four roped pitches and heavily corniced summit, August 14). We climbed all peaks at night, leaving camp between 10 p.m. and 11:30 p.m. to profit from best snow conditions. All readings are GPS.

Peter Whyley, United Kingdom