American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, St. Elias Range, Dak Tower, Flowers for Blaise, and Mt. McArthur, Some Kind of Monster

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2006

Kaskawulsh/Hubbard divide area, various ascents. After waiting five days for suitable weather to fly, Andy Williams put Jean Boyd, Cathryn and Nigel Wallis, and I down on July 1 at a superb “photo opportunity” location 10½ km north of Mt. Queen Mary: the Kaskawulsh/Hubbard divide area, north of Mt. Queen Mary (1:50,000 topo sheet 115B/12). Excellent weather allowed fabulous views of virtually the entire St. Elias Mountains. Yakutat’s helpful weather-forecasting service let us know that the next deep low was fast approaching from the Gulf of Alaska, so we climbed and flew out while we could. We climbed the following peaks:

Pts. 2,915m (GR 692313) and 2,890m (GR 679315), July 3, by traversing the ridge crest. We located no previous cairns, so we presumed ours were first ascents.

Pt. 3,000m (GR713347) “Family Peak,” July 4, via a steep snow/ice line up the northwest ridge from the col between our peak and a subpeak lying to the northwest. Then traverse the kilometer-long summit ridge over numerous subsummits. Finding no cairn, we presume ours to be a first ascent.

We ascended Pt. 2,941m (surveyed height; GR670332) on July 5, via the east-northeast ridge. We found a cairn on the summit, but no written record.

Roger Wallis, Toronto Section, Alpine Club of Canada, AAC

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