American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, St. Elias Range, South Walsh, Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2006

South Walsh, attempt. Our flight in was delayed for five days due to poor weather, and we left three days early due to the high probability of further poor flying conditions. Paul Geddes, Willa Haraysm, Dave McCormick, Ted Rosen, and I were on the Donjek Glacier from June 16-26. Isothermic snow provided many opportunities for post-holing, and very warm afternoons resulted in rock and serac falls and running water, which persisted through the night. We made a route on the northwest side of the lower icefall in order to reach the main hidden cirque. The cirque appeared to provide access to the col lying below Pt. 4,050m. However, at the 3,400-3,600m elevation there is a complex crevasse system traversing the entire cirque, immediately below the shelf leading to the col. This was as far as we reached. On June 21 Geddes and Haraysm climbed Pt. 3,450m (GR544590) in order to view the upper part of the proposed route. South Walsh (4,223m), if considered an independent summit, is the highest unclimbed peak in North America—see CAJ vol. 75,1992, p.8, for more information. [Just as we went to press, we received word that Paul Knott and Graham Rowbotham climbed South Walsh, summiting on May 28,2006, via the southwest ridge and upper south face. Details will appear in the 2007 AAJ—Ed.]

Roger Wallis, Toronto Section, Alpine Club of Canada, AAC

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.