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New York Section

Pt. 6,400', Dream of Eggs, and other activity. In June, Dave Hoven, Joel Irby, and I flew to the Ruth Gorge to attempt Ham and Eggs on the Moose’s Tooth. After spending numerous days in a snow cave, we attempted the route. We didn’t place a screw and bailed halfway up. After descending from the Root Canal, we re-established our camp at the base of Mt. Dickey. We climbed the Japanese Couloir on Mt. Barrill, taking a mixed-pitch variation about two-thirds of the way up the couloir. We then set our sights on the peak directly south of the Stump/Wisdom Tooth, which guards the glacier leading up to the Eye Tooth. We climbed the north-facing couloir until it met the western ridgeline. The climbing was spectacular, steep snow and moderate ice interspersed with occasional mixed moves. We reached the summit after six hours and descended the route, Dream of Eggs (Alaska Grade 1). Thanks to the Ritt Kellogg Fund and TAT, the trip was awesome.

Joe Forrester, AAC