American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Mt. Moroni, The Road to Cumorah

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2006

Mt. Moroni, The Road to Cumorah. In April, Chris Rowins, Dave Jones, and I climbed a new nine-pitch route on Mt. Moroni. The Road to Cumorah (IV 5.11 Cl) begins at the far east end of the of the southwest face. We started in a short, clean, left-curving aid crack, which soon turns into a three-inch jam crack. Higher, Chris led a short, chossy 5.10 pitch to the base of a dark, mottled chimney. I exited this sparsely protected slot early, to a belay just below a 350' section of easy 5th class. This section had some big ledges. Above, Dave led a beautiful double finger-crack pitch in a right-facing corner to an intersection with the old Southwest Face route. We followed a left-slanting corner section (one short 5.11 bulge) to a shoulder behind the top. A 5.7 face pitch led to the small, airy summit. We descended by rapping Voice from the Dust. The only aid on our climb was on the first pitch.

Brian Smoot

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.