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North America, United States, Utah, San Rafael Swell, Various Routes

San Rafael Swell, various routes. On January 30 Lance Bateman and I climbed a new route on the Eastern Reef of the San Rafael Swell. Dreamy Clouds (7 pitches, III 5.11d R A0) climbs the center of the “Great White Wall,” left of Three Finger Canyon. In Three Finger Canyon, on November 20, we established Reptilian Curiosity III 5.11R. The route is ca. 300' left of 1,000 Feet of Fun and finishes at the summit anchors of that route after six pitches. Both routes have lots of tricky run-out face climbing.

Previously unreported in Buckhorn Wash: In 2001 John Coulter, Mark Owen, and I established Echoes (III 5.9 A2), located about a mile up the road (toward Castle Dale) from the Buck- horn Wash pictograph panel. It starts in a right-facing dihedral above a closed campsite, with boulders on the east side of the road. In October 2002 Owen and I climbed a new route on the wall to the right of Echoes. This wall has a large pillar running all the way up the prow of the wall. There is a route of unknown origin left of the prow up good cracks in a corner system. Our route, Life During Wartime (V A3+), climbs a thin crack to left-leaning chocolate corners on the left side of the wall. The route is three pitches long, overhanging the entire way. Pitch two is the crux, with many beak placements in a steep, left-leaning corner. This pitch is 70m long.

Ben Folsom