American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Angel Wings, Right Wing

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2006

Angel Wings, Right Wing. Chris LaBounty and I made the first ascent of the Right Wing (IV 5.10d) on Angel Wings on July 15. This route ascends the striking arête to the right (east) of the South Arête. We approached from the start of the South Arête, by making a 35m rappel from bolts into the gully below. In 100m 3rd and 4th class becomes easy 5th. Three 5.10 pitches and four easier pitches lead to the top of the arête. After reaching the stacked rocks atop the arête, make a 60m easy 5th class traverse west, toward the South Arête. Make a 30m rappel into the gully from a chickenhead and head north for 100m of 4th class to a notch. Continue north for 60m on a 4th class orange band into another notch. Make a 30m rappel off two fixed nuts onto the backside of Angel Wings. From here hike east, almost toward the summit of Cherubim Dome, descend the summit ridge, and follow the gully toward Upper Hamilton Lake; you will meet the High Sierra Trail.

Brandon Thau

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