American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Mahalangur Himal, Qow Xab (Palung Ri) (7,022m)

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2005

Qow Xab (Palung Ri) (7,022m). I made a quick ascent of unclimbed [see editor’s note below] Qow Xab via the northwest ridge in 9 days from BC (4,915m) on the Balung Glacier. This was accomplished by crawling up through innumerous hidden crevasses and wading through waist-deep snow. It was a miracle that eventually our party could find a feasible route up the crest of this ridge. The peak was considered a satellite peak of Qho Oyu because of the difference in height between them, but actually it is an independent peak isolated from the other. Our party consisted of my colleague Murakami, the high porter Pinzo, and myself, but unfortunately Murakami had to give up the top as he became exhausted while trapped in a hidden crevasse during our summit bid. We made base camp on July 27, and after reconnoitering the north wall in vain, we decided on the northwest ridge. We made camps at 5,960m on August 3, and camp at 6,350m on August 4, and after considerable snow fell, we reached the summit on August 7.

Tadakiyo Sakahara, The Himalayan Association of Japan

Adapted from Japanese Alpine News, Tamotsu Nakamura, Editor

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