American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, China, Sichuan, Qionglai Range, Bipeng Valley, Peak 5,370m First Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2005

Bipeng Valley, Peak 5,370m, first ascent. On April 27 Rongqing Su (China) and I (USA) made the first ascent of Peak 5,370 (so named because it is 5,370m) (Lat: 31° 14' 30", Long: 102° 55' 04"). This may be a sub-peak of Peak 5414.

Our climb started in the ShangHaiZi parking lot of Bipeng valley. We made camp 1 on a grassy field on April 25 at 4,450m. The next day we walked up through deep, wet snow and made camp on the glacier at 5,050m. On April 27, we walked up the glacier to the saddle between Peak 5,414 (to the west) and Half Ridge Peak (to the northeast, 5,430m). From the saddle, we followed the ridgeline west to the summit of Peak 5,370. The last 50m involved climbing up a 50°-60° slope of loose snow on rock near the ridge and a small section of thin ridgeline to the summit, which can only stand one person at a time.

Jon Otto, AAC

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