Losar waterfall, one-day ascent. In February Conrad Anker and I did what may be the first one-day ascent of the famous “Losar” waterfall across from Namche Bazar in the Khumbu. We bivouacked at the bottom of the valley and climbed the 2,400-foot waterfall in 16 hours round trip. After hearing stories from many parties that told of strong climbers having trouble on the descent, we opted to take 70-meter ropes and rappel. The plan worked perfectly. Most of the climb is less than vertical with a couple of burly vertical pitches at the end. We didn’t do any simul-climbing on the technical terrain, and I was pretty sick at the time; so it is reasonable for any solid team to go for a one-day ascent—provided they are efficient with installing V-threads to get down.
Topher Donahue, AAC