American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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Asia, Nepal, Mustang Region, Manang Region, Purkhang, First Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2005

Purkhang, first ascent. In the summer, a Japanese party was successful on Purkhang (6,120m) in Manang district north of a popular so-called trekking peak, Chulu West. Of its 11 members, eight, plus six Sherpas, succeeded via the west ridge on August 18. Above their only high camp at 5,450m, they first had to cross numerous crevasses—they used a ladder to negotiate one— surmount an icefall, and, at 5,700m, climb a 100-meter high 65° ice wall. They had a long summit day: they left high camp at 3:40 a.m., were on the summit at 2:45 p.m., and returned to high camp at 8:00 p.m.

Elizabeth Hawley, AAC Honorary Member, Nepal

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