American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Mustang Region, Damodar Himal, Unnamed Peaks 6,084m (Namy) and 6,130m (Yury), First Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2005

Unnamed peaks 6,084m (Namy) and 6,130m (Yury), first ascents. I got a permit for Gajiang (6,111m), as it attracted me strongly. It soars like Machhapuchare in a less-frequented area of Damodar Himal. However, this peak had very steep slopes. In spite of four days of exploration (October 20–23), I could not find any viable climbing route, so I gave up the plan [Mr. Kato is reported to have reached ca 5,600m, but still some considerable distance from the summit, on the south east ridge after first attempting the north ridge]. Instead, I was able to climb two unnamed peaks, 6,084m and 6,130m respectively.

Unnamed peak 6,084 (I called it Namy Peak) October 24–26: The snow-covered Namy Peak is located to the south of Jomson Himal and is the highest in this area. We went from BC to Labse Khola to the north and set up ABC (5,000m) at the end of a glacier. Then we set up C1 at 5,200m on the right of the moraine. There we could see the mountain ridges extending to the top. On the way, we stopped using the climbing rope under a cornice, and plodded in the knee-deep snow. On the summit, I had my picture taken with Gajiang in the background. I measured the location of this mountain using GPS. I saw Pokarkan, which I first ascended two year before, to the east. The date of arrival at the summit: October 26. GPS data: 28°49'18.8?N, 84°08T4.1?E; H 6,094m.

Unnamed peak 6,130m (I called it Yury Peak) October 29–30: The peak, snow-capped on the southern side, is at the dividing point of the Labse Khola Massif. From ABC (5,000m) we followed the moraine on the left and reached the foot of Yury Peak. We climbed the rock ridge between a waterfall and a valley, then followed the valley and went up 100 meters to a gully on the left side. Then we set up C1 (5,480m) on a flat ridge at the top of the gully. Looking up from C1, we caught a glimpse of the white snow on the summit beyond on a rock ridge. Above C1 there was a steep slope of 25°–30°, with small rocks and little snow. My feet slipped many times on the rocks, but I carefully climbed, minding the falling rocks. 200 meters below the summit there was much snow, but I managed to reach the top. There was little space there and only one person could stand. From the top, I was able to see Jomson Himal in the south and, in the north, Khumjungar Himal, which is the highest mountain in the Damodar area. We took pictures and measured the location of this mountain using GPS, then returned to C1. The date of arrival at the summit: October 30. GPS data: 28°51'12.2?N, 84°07'23.1?E; H 6,143m. The team: Leader: Koichi Kato (63); Sherpa: Pasang Tamang (36).

Koichi Kato, Japan

* Adapted from Japanese Alpine News, Tamotsu Nakamura, Editor

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