American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Masherbrum Range, Nangma Valley, Roungkhanchan 1 (4,600m), North Wall; Troubles, Cough and Fever

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2005

Roungkhanchan 1 (4,600m), north wall; Troubles, Cough and Fever. During August, Marco Zebochin, Stefano Zaleri, and I (all members of GARS— part of Società Alpina delle Giulie, the local branch of Italian Alpine Club) climbed a new route on Roungkhanchan 1 (4,600m) north wall. This wall had never been climbed before; our route, Troubles, Cough and Fever, is the first on the wall. It is on good rock, 540 meters long (14 pitches) of grade 6b+ and some aid (A1). Recommended climbing gear: Two 60m ropes, 12 quick draws, cams, and pitons. The pitches are equipped with bolts, but cams and pitons are still required. The route is equipped for rappels, but it is possible to return to base camp by walking on easy terrain directly from the top. We used about 100 bolts (each belay stand is equipped with a minimum of two bolts).

To reach the cliff you have to travel from Skardu to Kande village by jeep. From there it is one day of walking up the Nangma Valley to the base camp on a beautiful and comfortable grass-covered clearing along the river. The wall is located on the right side of the valley (the same side as the Great Tower). To reach the cliff, follow the moraine (formed by the K6 glacier) on the right side and then walk to the base of the big dihedral of the Roungkhanchan 1.

This valley offers many possibilities for new routes even if the rock is not always perfect. During our stay we met other parties from Slovenia, Spain, Canada, and Italy that were successfully engaged in climbing new projects.

Dario Crosato, Società Alpina delle Giulie, Italy

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