Asia, Pakistan, Masherbrum Range, Nangma Valley, Denbor Brakk (4,800m), Southwest Face, Bloody Mary

Publication Year: 2005.

Denbor Brakk (4,800m), southwest face, Bloody Mary. In July, after a period of bad weather in the valley, Vasek Satava and Pavel Jonak packed their gear and found themselves at the southwest face of Denbor Brakk (Nangma Valley). They then attempted the unclimbed left pillar of the three on the southwest face. They had some trouble with the first pitches, which were full of vegetation. They aimed at a roof with a hand crack close to the headwall, which they reached after four days of climbing. The crack turned out to be an off width. They could use only one Camalot for protection, and the weather made it worse, so they thought a descent to basecamp was the best decision. Both climbers returned at last, reclimbed their ropes up the first 10 pitches and at the end of the second day had added another. They then climbed the remaining five pitches to the summit. They called the route Bloody Mary, 14 pitches, IX- A2.

Jan Kreisinger, Czech Republic

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