American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Baltoro Muztagh, Gasherbrum III

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2005

Gasherbrum III (7,952m), second ascent. On June 17 Alberto Iñurrategi, Jon Beloki, and I arrived at Gasherbrum base camp; we wanted to attempt G-IV by the northeast original route, but by July 12 we were tired of the bad weather and the deep track on the Gasherbrum plateau, so we decided to attempt G-III instead. On the 25th we camped on C-4 of G-II with a lot of other people, and the next day we followed the 1975 Polish Route on the south east face of G-III. On the first hard pitch we found a titanium piton, the only trace of previous climbers. I turned back 200 meters below the summit, but my partners reached the main summit at 10:30 a.m., 29 years after the first (and only) ascent.

Jose Carlos Tamayo, Spain

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