Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Trango Group, Trango Tower, Variation Start to Sun Terrace

Publication Year: 2005.

Trango Tower, variation start to Sun Terrace. A Korean team more or less repeated a new start to the Sun Terrace pioneered by another Korean expedition in 2003 (two members of this were on the 2004 trip). This line climbs the lower west face to the Sun Terrace directly below the prow of Eternal Flame and left of the classic Slovenian start. There are 10 pitches: three on rock (5.10a and A3+); four on ice (to WI 4); three mixed (to M5). Although our team completed this line without the use of fixed rope, it was badly threatened by falling rock and ice due to the high temperatures at the time. From the Terrace our team fixed ca 250 meters of rope up the Slovenian Route and reached a height of 6,120m but couldn’t finish due to the large quantities of snow and ice above.

Dae-Hoon Yoon, Korea