American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Trango Group, Shipton Spire, New Route Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2005

Shipton Spire, new route attempt. Bulgarians Milkana Ruseva, Dimitar Tzolov, Stanimir Zhelyazkov, and I climbed a variation start to Ship of Fools. We started up the face between Akelarre and the 1992 American attempt, joined the former, and after climbing a total of six pitches to the top of the first tower broke out right, climbing seven new free pitches (UIAA VI+, IX-/7b, V+, V+, VI, VI+, V+) to a big ledge, where we established a second camp. Six meters up to the right we joined Ship of Fools and continued up this for another six pitches before having to call it a day and leave for home. The crux IX- pitch was a 50-meter diedre with an off-width crack (two protection bolts) and was followed by several chimney pitches, some of which were dirty and dangerous. Due to poor weather we were only able to climb on eight of the ca 30 days.

Strahil Geshev, Bulgaria

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