AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Rakaposhi Range, Spantik, Ascent of 1987 British Descent Route

Spantik, ascent of 1987 British Descent Route. A small Japanese expedition climbed 7,028m Spantik from the northwest, repeating the Descent Route used by Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders after their historic ascent of the Golden Pillar in 1987. The line follows a prominent snow and ice spur well right of the Pillar to reach the plateau and upper southwest ridge at ca 6,500m. It was also used for descent by the 2000 French-Slovenian-Russian expedition that repeated the British Route and added a second line to the Pillar.

Kazuya Hiraide, Ms. Kei Taniguchi, and Kazuo Tobita acclimatized on Rash Phari (5,058m) before establishing Base Camp below the face on the June 25. On the 28th they set up Camp 1 on the North West Spur at 5,500m and on the July 8 Camp 2 on the plateau after fixing 150 meters of rope through the serac wall at the top of the spur. Tobita remained here on the 9th while Taniguchi and Tobita ploughed their way up deep snow and through poor weather to the summit, relocating their camp later the same day by GPS.

The Japanese report two other expeditions active on this side of the mountain (probably Austrian and Spanish); one attempting the Golden Pillar itself and one the Descent Route. Both of these are believed to have failed.

Tamotsu Nakamura, Japanese Alpine News