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South America, Chile, Southern Patagonia, Torres del Paine National Park, North Tower of Paine, New Route

North Tower of Paine, new route. In February 2002 John Rzeczycki and I climbed a new route that went to the north summit of the North Tower in Torres del Paine Park. The route starts on the right side of the west face and shares the first pitch with what I think is El Caballo del Diablo (Lloyd-Pritchard, 1992), then continues straight up dihedrals for 600' where we crossed El Caballo del Diablo on a large ledge. We continued traversing toward the notch and summited via the south face after nine or ten pitches and some simul-climbing. The route went all free except for a fall on the crux pitch. The pitch was freed at 5.11 by the second on top rope. The first 500' were previously climbed by a party from Montana.

Ralph Ferrara, AAC