American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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Historical Note: Regarding the 1980 Italian Route (De Dona-Giongo) on Egger

  • Notes
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  • Publication Year: 2005

Historical Note: Regarding the 1980 Italian Route (De Dona-Giongo) on Egger, Huber writes, “I [cannot say] if they climbed it or not. I just will say, what I saw and found (and didn’t find)…but for sure I will have an opinionHuber notes the conspicuous absence of any trace of passage at the Herron-Egger col, or on the 5.10 slabs from the col to the summit, nor visible descent anchors from the col to the top of Egger. This, notes Huber, sharply contrasts with the abundance of fixed ropes and gear on the lower portion of the Italian Route. However, several clarifications need to be made. The fixed ropes and gear on the lower portion were left by teams that attempted the route before De Dona and Giongo, including a large British team led by Leo Dickinson in 1974 and a large expedition from New Zealand in 1975 (Punta Herron is named after one of the members of this team, Philip Herron, who died at the base of Torre Egger when he fell into a crevasse). De Dona and Giongo claim to have climbed alpine style, therefore it is not surprising that in the upper portion of the route gear would be sparse. In an article published in the Italian journal Scandere in 1980 (p. 33), Giongo writes: "In the slabs below the summit mushroom we place three bolts, as irrefutable proof of our passage." On the same page a photograph shows De Dona and Giongo climbing a mushroom-like formation in cloudy conditions, with a caption that reads: “Climbing the summit mushroom, a few meters below the summit.” While Huber’s findings cast some doubt on De Dona and Giongo’s claims, further investigation is required.

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