American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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South America, Peru, Cordillera Vilcanota, Various Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2005

Various ascents. Our expedition included Stanko Mihev, Franc and Janeta Pusnik, Samo Rupreht, Matjaz Prislan, Marko Anzelak, Igor Plesivcnik, Peter Naglia, Peter Jeromel, and me as leader. We started from Malma on June 30, with 20 horses for the 15km trek to our 4,625m base camp. On July 4 we established ABC at 5,050m, on a glacier below the south face of Colque Cruz and Jatunriti.

On July 8 we attempted Nevado Carhuaco Puncu, one group from the northwest, another group from the south side. Mihev, the Pusniks, Rupreht, Anzelak, and Naglia made an ascent from the northwest of a 5,525m sub-peak of Carhuaco Puncu that we think was unclimbed and

we called it Slovenski Turn. Jeromel,Prislan, Plesivcnik, and I reached 5,450m on the ridge below Nevado Carhuaco Puncu from the west side.

On July 10 Mihev, Pusnik, Rupreht, Prislan, Jeromel, and I went to ABC to climb Jatunriti. The next day we bivouacked at 5,450m on a glacier, in a lot of powdery snow. On July 12 we reached Shoe Col (5,775m), from which Mihev and I, and Pusnik and Prislan, climbed the northeast side of Jatunriti. We reached the top at 2 p.m. The final 250m were ice and snow averaging 50°-70°, with a maximum of 80°. We called the route, “Nauci se Loviti Sanje” (Aprende a Atrapar Los Sueños). We rappelled the route.

The same day, alone, Peter Jeromelj climbed a new route on the southeast face of Nevado Jatuncampa (5,700m). He named the route Anina Smer, rating it II/III (UIAA rock) with snow and ice to 45°(avg)/70°(max).

On July 13 Anzelak and Naglia made an ascent, from the north side, of Nevado Mullucocha (5,400m). On July 16 we cleaned up base camp and left.

Boris Santner, Alpinisticni klub Ravne, Slovenia

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