South America, Peru, Cordillera Central, Nevado Llongote, Lima-Limon

Publication Year: 2005.

Nevado Llongote, Lima-Limon. The day after setting up base camp by Laguna Llongote in the Zona Yauyos, Guillermo Meija and I checked the approach to our intended route, an ice line directly up the south face to the summit of Llongote (5,781m), and carried gear to the glacier. On October 16 we started at midnight and reached the glacier in three hours. The first part of the route was easy slopes to the first icefall (good ice, 70°-80°).We climbed together to more icefalls (80°), which led to the key ice wall. The condition of the ice was good, with steps of 90° and 95°. Above, deep, bad snow slopes (65°-70°) proved difficult and dangerous, but we gained the summit at 6 p.m. We started to rappel the southeast face (between our route and the 2002 French route on the east ridge), but could not continue due to rockfall. We bivouacked 100m below the summit. The next day we continued rappelling and arrived at base camp at 4:30 p.m. It’s a very nice route (Lima-Limon, 600m, ED 70°-80° {95° max}) but might be better earlier in the season.

Richard Hidalgo, Peru