American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Jangyaraju, South Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2005

Jangyaraju, south face. As part of a program for aspirant guides run by the Mountain Guide Association of Peru (AGMP), a 400m route was established on the south face of Jangyaraju (5,675m) on October 20, 2003. The route ascends the right-side of the hanging glacier in the center of the face, continuing up on an ice runnel that begins on the top-right margin of the hanging glacier. This runnel angles back left, joining the runnel that rises from the center of the hanging glacier. The route then traverses left along the summit cornices. The first ascent was made by Aritza Monasterio, Peter Alvarado, and Darwin Jamamca. Beto Toledo, Paolo Zaconet, Pedro Huaman, and Joseli Callupe then repeated the route, rated TD+ (50°-65° [90° max]).

Information supplied by Richard Hidalgo

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