AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

North America, Mexico, Nuevo Leon, Cerro Picachos, Various New Routes

Cerro Picachos, various new routes. This granite area off Hwy 85, 50 miles north of Monterrey, is as beautiful as it is wild. I will not even attempt to give directions. Go to Sombreretillo and ask the locals. Three- to four-hour walk in. The climbing is concentrated on the south and central peaks.

Jimmy Carse and I established several new routes, the longest being Lila (5.11cR/X), which climbs the 800' east face of the south peak in six pitches. Start on the slabs, climb the right-facing dihedral to the summit block (5.10) and follow a very thin seam out right. Where the seam ends, climb straight up to a belay 11c/d R/X. (A few knifeblades would take the danger out of this pitch.) Traverse back left to a crack that leads to the summit (5. 10d). Thin to medium rack. There is an old ladder system that descends the south ridge and east face.

[Catlin and Carse also climbed four-pitch new routes on the northwest buttress and west dihedral of the south peak. On the central peak the pair climbed three new four-pitch routes, and Carse and Ralph Vega added another—Ed.]

Alex Catlin