American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Greenland, Cape Farewell Region, Pamiagdluk East, First Ascents and Repeats

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2005

Pamiagdluk East, first ascents and repeats. During two weeks of perfect weather in the second half of August Daniela and Hans-Jochen Hägele with Andreas and Sandra Holle repeated several of the routes put up by the 1994 Bayerland and 1996 Freisinger expeditions, and added one or two of their own. Setting up Base Camp in the valley leading west from the shores of Anordliutsup Iua towards Twin Pillar, they started with Naujarssuit (ca 1,100m), first climbed in 1994, where they put up Stümerkante (eight pitches: VI-). Then it was the concave South Face of Frenchbird (1,242m) where they repeated Haute Cuisine (15 pitches: VIII-). On the Red Wall (ca 1,050m), which lies south west of Qilerdike at the head of the valley, they repeated Nordlicht (VII+ and A2) as far as the 10th pitch then rappelled. Turning their attentions towards the islands highest peak, 1,373m Twin Pillar, they climbed the 10-pitch Vereinsausflug (VII+). Later, the Holies climbed Aurora (12 pitches: all free at VII+/VIII-) on Qilerdike (1,200m) to the end of the difficulties. The day before they were due to leave the Hägeles added another route to the South Face of Frenchbird with Kurz vor Knapp (nine pitches: VII-).

Lindsay Griffin, Mountain INFO Editor, CLIMB magazine

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